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"The next key component for the surf to be any good for riding is the angle that the waves approach the break. Why is this important ? Well we've all heard of 'close outs' and 'making sections' - well the key thing that's being talked about here is how fast the white water appears to travel along the wave. If the whole wave crest is parallel to the beach, it'll all break at once, and there wont be a shoulder to ride. However - if a wave approaches at a slight angle to the beach, then one end breaks first, because it hits the beach first. You, the surfer, can then travel along the wave, using it's power to propel yourself from one end of the beach to the other...... or that's the theory...."
Story (Submitted by Noel Thu Jun 3, 2004 )
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